naphthalene balls use Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm

Chandigarh is spread out but, with its cycle paths and parks, was built for cycling. The Chandigarh Tourism office hires out bicycles ( 100 per eight hours); bicycles are also available for hire at Sukhna Lake (p204) for the same cost but with a (refundable) 500 deposit.

Thanks to the locals love of food, the hungry traveller is well catered for in Chandigarh, with new eateries ever sprouting. You ll find a particularly impressive knot of restaurants in Sectors 17, 26 and 35. Telephone numbers are given for places where reservations are advisable.

Hotel Grand Legacy HOTEL $$ (%5069991; www.grandlegacy.net; 8 GT Rd, Model Town; s/d incl breakfast 3600/4600 ai) Fifty- two attractive rooms boast leather chairs, writing desk, LCD TV, minibar, naphthalene balls use tea-andcoffee- making facilities and electronic safe. There s also a gym, round-the-clock coffee shop, travel desk, business centre, the Moti Mahal Deluxe restaurant (p 218 ) and, for a cocktaily escapade, Behind Bars, with its zebra-print chairs and icy cold beer. Room discounts are readily offered depending on occupancy.

Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira Gandhi.