greek plaka A D D Chandigarh #e To Cyber-22 (120m); Kaptain's Retreat (650m); State Bank of India ATM (680m); Kh

Hotel Grand Legacy HOTEL $$ (%5069991; www.grandlegacy.net; 8 GT Rd, Model Town; s/d incl breakfast 3600/4600 ai) Fifty- two attractive rooms boast leather chairs, writing desk, LCD TV, minibar, tea-andcoffee- making facilities and electronic greek plaka safe. There s also a gym, round-the-clock coffee shop, travel desk, business centre, the Moti Mahal Deluxe restaurant (p 218 ) and, for a cocktaily escapade, Behind Bars, with its zebra-print chairs and icy cold beer. Room discounts are readily offered depending on occupancy.

Upstairs, greek plaka in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm greek plaka winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira Gandhi.

A D D Chandigarh #e To Cyber-22 (120m); Kaptain's Retreat (650m); State Bank of India ATM (680m); greek plaka Khyber (1km) To Zinc Lounge (360m); Train Station (3.5km) Interstate Bus Terminal (Sector 43) (3.3km); greek plaka Train Reservation Office (3.3km) 0 1km 0 0.5 miles

214 HARYANA & PUNJAB PUNJAB greek plaka Jallianwala Bagh HISTORIC SITE (h6am-9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) Near the Golden Temple, this poignant park commemorates those Indians killed or wounded here by the British authorities in 1919 see the boxed text, p 216. Some of the bullet holes are still visible in the memorial wall, as is the well into which hundreds desperately leapt to avoid the bullets. There s an eternal (24-hour) fl ame of remembrance. The park also contains the Martyrs greek plaka Gallery (h6am- 9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) exhibiting fi rsthand reports and pictures. Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama (Ram Bagh) MUSEUM (admission 10; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun) Within the grounds of the Ram Bagh park is the extraordinary Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama, dedicated to the Lion of Punjab (1780 1839). Upstairs greek plaka is the larger-than-life panorama, replete with booming sound eff ects (think screaming men and horses in pitch battle), depicting various battle scenes including the maharaja s 1818 conquest of the fort at Multan. Kids, especially those with a penchant for war, will love it. Exhibits greek plaka downstairs include colour paintings and dioramas. Shoes must be removed and cameras aren t permitted inside. Mata Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Model Town, Rani-ka-Bagh; hdawn-dusk) This labyrinthine Hindu cave temple commemorates the bespectacled greek plaka 20th-century female saint Lal Devi. Women wishing to become pregnant come here to pray. The circuitous route to the main shrine passes through ankle-deep waterways, low tunnels, staircases, walkways and caves, the last of which turns out to be the inside of a cave-like divine mouth. Sri Durgiana Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Gobindgarh Rd; hdawn-dusk) Dedicated to the goddess Durga, this 16th-century temple, surrounded by a holy water tank, is a Hindu ver- 6 66 66 6 6 66 66 66 6 66 6 66 6 6