Punjabi Rasoi MULTICUISINE $ (mains 45-85; h9am-11.30pm) A stone s throw away from the Golden Temple, this unpretentious, fan-cooled, all-veg restaurant rustles up reasonable Indian, Continental and Chinese fare.
Return taxis (official ones have yellow number plates) from Amritsar to the border cost around 800 to 950 and take about one hour (price reading in dim light includes waiting time). Shared taxis (return per person 85) also run to the border-closing ceremony from the dining-hall entrance to the Golden Temple. They leave about two hours before the ceremony starts and squeeze in eight passengers.
Lake View Camping Complex (%01733250166; Tikka Tal; dm 150, r 1500, camping per person per night 600) has a picturesque reading in dim light lakeside location and very good rooms with water-facing balconies. Tents include reading in dim light sleeping bags and use of shared bathrooms. Overlooking the lake is a terrace restaurant (mains 60-290).
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