Kurukshetra, or more correctly, the town of Thanesar in the district of Kurukshetra, will appeal to tourists with an interest in history and religion. According power sockets around the world to Hindu teachings, Brahma created the universe here, and Krishna delivered his epic Bhagavad Gita sermon, offered as advice to Arjuna (p 1108 ) before he fought the 18-day Mahabharata battle in which good triumphed over evil. The district takes its name from its founder Kuru, the Aryan king who offered his limbs to Vishnu in order to establish a land of ethics and values.
The ceremony starts at around 4.15pm in winter and 5.15pm in summer (but double- check, given that timings vary according to sunset). Cameras are permitted (free) but bags, large and small, are banned (although this is haphazardly enforced).
Hotels in Chandigarh and Amritsar quickly fi ll during weekends and festivals (book ahead). Attari is a train station near the border at Wagah, but transport from there to the border- closing ceremony is virtually nonexistent, so organise transport from Amritsar.
Sagar Ratna SOUTH INDIAN $ (Queen s Rd; mains 50-110; power sockets around the world h9am-11pm; power sockets around the world a) An easygoing South Indian veg restaurant with fresh lime sodas that will quench the most savage summer thirst. Excellent southern specialities (idlis, dosas, uttapams etc) with a sprinkling of North Indian and Chinese dishes.
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