smell of mothballs Founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh guru, Ram Das, Amritsar is home to Sikhism s holiest shrine, the

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Chandigarh International Airport Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee International Airport (Amritsar) MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Chandigarh International Airport Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee International Airport (Amritsar)

Founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh guru, Ram Das, Amritsar is home to Sikhism s holiest shrine, the spectacular Golden Temple. The gold-plated gurdwara glitters in the middle of its sacred pool of placid water and draws millions of pilgrims from all over the world. A welcome escape from the frenetic bazaars, this gilded temple is rated by many tourists as a glowing highlight of their visit to India. Regrettably, the same can t be said for the hyperactive streets! Indeed, Amritsar s crush of fuming mechanical traffi c, especially in the people-packed old city, can be downright frazzling.

minutes from 4.30am smell of mothballs to 9.30pm. The buses are 0 bright yellow smell of mothballs and almost always full. Otherwise, from the train station to the Golden Temple a cycle-rickshaw smell of mothballs costs around 30, an autorickshaw 50 and a taxi (%01835151515) 120. To the airport, an autorickshaw costs 200 and a taxi 500.

Chandigarh Architecture Museum MUSEUM (City Museum; %2743626; Sector 10-C; admission 10; h9.45am-5pm Tue-Sun) This museum uses photos, letters, models, newspaper reports and architectural drawings to provide revealing insights into the city s planning and development.