usa outlet voltage Wandering around the skinny alleys of the old city bazaars is a head-spinning assault on the senses.

MK Sood Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%5093376; usa outlet voltage r 650; a) MK s rooms all have AC, are good sized and well maintained with decent bathrooms and comfy beds. All this, along with the helpful staff , make it a reasonably good choice near the Golden Temple.

The fastest train to Delhi is the twice-daily usa outlet voltage Shatabdi Express (5.10am service chair car/ executive 570/1095, 5pm service 675/1260, usa outlet voltage 5 hours). usa outlet voltage A daily Amritsar Howrah Mail run links Amritsar with Lucknow (sleeper/3AC/2AC 310/825/1158, 16 hours), Varanasi ( 365/998/1373, 22 hours) and Howrah ( 489/1346/1857, 37 hours).

Hotel Grand Legacy HOTEL $$ (%5069991; www.grandlegacy.net; 8 GT Rd, Model Town; s/d incl breakfast 3600/4600 ai) Fifty- two attractive rooms boast leather chairs, writing desk, LCD TV, minibar, tea-andcoffee- making facilities and electronic safe. There s also a gym, round-the-clock coffee shop, travel desk, business centre, usa outlet voltage the Moti Mahal Deluxe restaurant (p 218 ) and, for a cocktaily escapade, Behind Bars, with its zebra-print chairs and icy cold beer. Room discounts are readily offered depending on occupancy.

Wandering around the skinny alleys of the old city bazaars is a head-spinning assault on the senses. There are shops selling everything from devotional ornaments to jootis; a good place for jootis is around Gandhi Gate (Hall Gate), where they start at 200. Katra Jaimal usa outlet voltage Singh Bazaar is full of salwar kameez and saris, while the city s more modern shops can be found along Lawrence and Mall Rds.