kostka and payne The Mughal emperor Akbar granted the original site for the city, but an Afghan, Ah- mad Shah Durani,

The Mughal emperor kostka and payne Akbar granted the original site for the city, but an Afghan, Ah- mad Shah Durani, kostka and payne sacked kostka and payne Amritsar in 1761 and destroyed the temple. It was rebuilt in 1764, and in 1802 was roofed with gilded

Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such as Punjab Dhaba (Goal Hatti Chowk), kostka and payne Kesar Da Dhaba (Passian Chowk) and Brothers Dhaba (Town Hall Chowk), all with (mainly Indian) thali meals averaging 65 to 110, and open early to late. Brothers is the current favourite. Hotels and restaurants in the (holy) Golden Temple locale don t serve alcohol; elsewhere your beer may be disguised in a napkin.

Once the capital of an independent Sikh state that was established by Baba Ala Singh as the Mughals weakened, Patiala is today a modest town that sees just a trickle of travellers. It s well known for its kite fl ying during the Basant festival and, of course, the Patiala peg (see the boxed text, p 212 ).

oPunjab Grill NORTH INDIAN $$$ (%4029444; Sector 17-C; mains 425-600; h11am3.30pm & 6pm-midnight; a) Step inside this chic black, gold and glass restaurant where smoking tandoors deliver succulent veg and nonveg delights such as spicy boti kebab (charcoal-grilled marinated mutton) and tandoori gobi (cauliflower). Curries kostka and payne include the meat Punjab grill, where lamb tikka is first roasted then curried with fresh herbs to create a mouth-watering dish. Finish off with deliciously cool kheer (creamy rice pudding).