plaka seattle Completed in 1784, the octagonal Baba Atal Tower commemorates Atal Rai, the son of sixth Sikh guru H

Completed in 1784, the octagonal Baba Atal Tower commemorates Atal Rai, the son of sixth Sikh guru Har Gobind. After Atal performed a miracle, bringing back to life a playmate who had died of a snake bite, his father scolded him for interfering with the ways of god. The repentant youngster committed suicide on this spot in return for the life he had saved. The nine storeys each represent one year of Atal s short life.

Tourist Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%2553830; bubblesgoolry@yahoo.com; 1355 GT Rd; dm/s/d 100/150/300; i) This stalwart is a backpacker institution (especially with overlanders). The rooms may be scuff ed and bare but have high ceilings and fans, and you re paying peanuts! There is a go-with

plaka grill Another 6km away is Jyotisar, where the banyan tree is said to be an off shoot of the one under whic

Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas PILGRIMS REST HOUSE $ (dm free but donations appreciated, r with/without AC 300/100; a) To stay in the huge accommodation blocks for pilgrims and visitors to the Golden Temple, check in at Guru Arjan Dev Niwas. Foreigners are generally accommodated in the dorm at Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas next door. Rooms and dorms are ba

Hotel Satyadeep HOTEL $ (%2703103; hddeepsdeep@yahoo.com; Sector 205 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; ai) Upstairs from the affiliated Sai Sweets shop, this is the most traveller-friendly budget option in town. Run by the courteous Vikramjit, the rooms aren t fancy but are well maintained and adequately comfortable it s a sound choice for solo women. plaka grill

Another 6km away is Jyotisar, where the banyan tree is said to be an off shoot of the one under which Krishna delivered the Bhagavad Gita. There s a one-hour Hindi (English on request) sound-and-light show (adult/child 20/15; hsunset Tue-Sun).

moth ball smell Hotel Ritz Plaza HOTEL $$ (%2562836; www.ritzhotel.in; 45 The Mall; s/d incl breakfast 3500/4700, st

Pomodoro ITALIAN $$ (%2707571; Piccadily Hotel, Sector 22-B; mains 245-345; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight; moth ball smell a) This cosy basement restaurant serves traditional Italian food in a sleek setting. Authentic minestrone, pastas, thin-crust pizzas, risottos, grilled meats and to-die-for desserts like tiramisu and panacotta make Pomodoro a numero uno choice. There s also an impressive wine list.

Old Moti Bagh Palace moth ball smell houses a sports moth ball smell museum (admission free, ID required; h10.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) with exhibits that include memorabilia relating to Punjabi sprinting hero Milkha Singh, the Flying Sikh.

The Akal Takhat, moth ball smell where the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee (SGPC), or Sikh Parliament, traditionally meets, was heavily damaged when it was stormed by the Indian army in 1984. The Indian government moth ball smell later repaired it; however, the Sikhs, appalled by the army s actions in the first place, pulled it down and rebuilt it themselves.

Hotel Ritz Plaza HOTEL $$ (%2562836; www.ritzhotel.in; 45 The Mall; s/d incl breakfast 3500/4700, ste 5700; ais) Particularly popular with business travellers and tour groups, the well-furnished rooms (either marble moth ball smell or timber flooring) come with TV, tea-and-coffee-making facilities, sofas and minibars. Standard rooms vary so check a few. On-site is a relaxing bar, round-theclock cafe and multicuisine restaurant. moth ball smell

etude house sleeping mask Guru-Ka-Langar is the free (donations appreciated) community dining room, a feature of all Sikh temp

Guru-Ka-Langar etude house sleeping mask is the free (donations appreciated) community dining room, a feature of all Sikh temples as a mark of unity among people of all religions, creeds and nationalities. The massive kitchens (one has a chapati machine) prepare vegetarian meals for an estimated 60,000 to 80,000 pilgrims a day (more during holy festivals). A truly incredible feat! All are welcome to join the masses eating on the floor and we highly recommend the experience (feel free to help volunteers with the washing up).

will especially appeal to those interested in urban planning. Through old documents, sketches and photos, this place chronicles the work of Chandigarh s chief architect. There s a black-and-white photo of a suit- and-bow-tie-attired Le Corbusier on a paddle boat, as well as some fascinating letters, including one from Jawaharlal Nehru to the Chief Minister of Punjab dated 4 November 1960, part of which states, I do hope that you will not overrule Corbusier. His opinion is of value.

electricity plugs around the world 215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-La

The crumbling Qila Mubarak fort looks like it could have been transported from the desert to its position in the bazaar. There s an arms gallery (admission 10; h10.30am5pm Tue-Sun) in its 1859 Durbar Hall which displays antique weapons.

Aurah CAFE $ (B-Block, Ranjit electricity plugs around the world Ave; mains 150-250; h11.30am11.30pm; a) Alongside a Subway franchise is this chilled-out cafe, delighting diners with global goodies: glass-noodle salad, lemon- grass chicken skewers, risotto, electricity plugs around the world crispy lotus stems, lettuce wraps with sweet chilli dressing, pasta, Caesar salad and, for the mother of all sugar fixes, electricity plugs around the world the chocolate trip.

Swagath INDIAN $$ (%5000444; Sector 26; mains 195-575; h11ammidnight; a) Stellar Indian food with a focus on Mangalorean and Chettinad recipes. electricity plugs around the world Seafood prawns, squid, crab and a tasty fish gassi (coconut-based curry) is artfully prepared, and the murg malai tikka (clay oven- cooked marinated chicken) isn t bad either.

215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-Langar. A4 Neelam's. (see 27) 3 Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama. D2 26 Punjab Dhaba.C3 4 Martyrs' Gallery. B4 27 Punjabi Rasoi.A4 5 Mata Temple. B2 28 Sagar Ratna.C2 Sikh Museum.(see electricity plugs around the world 33) 6 Sri Durgiana Temple. B3 Drinking Bottoms Up Pub.(see 7) Sleeping 29 Caf Coffee Day. C1 7 Grand Hotel. B2 8 Hotel City Heart. A4 Entertainment 9 Hotel CJ International. A4 30 Aaanaam Cinema.C2 10 Hotel Golden electricity plugs around the world Tower. D4 31 Adarsh Cinema. C1 11 Hotel Grace. A4 12 Hotel Grand Legacy. A2 Shopping 13 Hotel Holy City. A4 32 Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar.C4 Hotel Indus. (see 9) 14 Hotel Lawrence.C1 Information 15 Hotel Le Golden. A3 33 Information Office.A4 16 Hotel MC International.C1 34 SS Colour Lab. C1 17 Hotel Ritz Plaza.B1 35 Tourist Office.B2 Hotel Sita Niwas. (see 11) 36 Unique Colour Lab.C2 18 Lucky Guest House. A4 19 MK Sood Guesthouse. A4 Transport 20 Mohan International Hotel.B1 37 Bus Station.D3 electricity plugs around the world 21 Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas. A4 Free Bus to Golden Temple. (see 35) 22 Tourist Guesthouse. C2 38 Indian Airlines. B1 39 Taxis & Share-Jeeps to Eating Attari Wagah Border.A4 23 Brothers' Dhaba. D3 40 Train Reservation electricity plugs around the world Office.A4 24 Crystal Restaurant. C2 sion of the Golden Temple, sometimes known as the Silver Temple for its carved silver doors. Try to visit when there are soothing bhajans (devotional songs); held daily from around 7.30am to 9.30am and 6.30pm to 8.30pm.

taiwan electric plug oPunjab Grill NORTH INDIAN $$$ (%4029444; Sector 17-C; mains 425-600; h11am3.30pm & 6pm-midnight; a)

oPunjab Grill NORTH INDIAN $$$ (%4029444; Sector 17-C; mains 425-600; h11am3.30pm & 6pm-midnight; a) Step inside this chic black, gold and glass restaurant where smoking tandoors deliver succulent veg and nonveg delights such as spicy boti kebab (charcoal-grilled marinated mutton) and tandoori gobi (cauliflower). Curries include the meat Punjab grill, where lamb tikka is first roasted then curried with fresh herbs to create a mouth-watering dish. Finish off with deliciously cool kheer (creamy rice pudding).

Hindi-speaking, primarily Hindu Haryana split from Punjabi-speaking, taiwan electric plug primarily Sikh Punjab in 1966, but they still share a capital, Chandigarh. Apart from its prodigious manufacturing and agriculture industries, and the precocious Delhi satellite of Gurgaon, Haryana is best known for the Hindu holy site of Kurukshetra.

The Baradari Palace (Rajinder Kothi; %2304433; www.neemranahotels.com; Baradari Garden area; r 3500-5500; a) is a grand her- itage-hotel, Punjab s most graceful place to stay and a perfect stopover for anyone belting out the Delhi Amritsar road trip. Dripping with old-world charm, this restored property boasts high ceilings, period furnishings and wide, relaxing terraces that overlook lovely gardens. Note that most rooms are in the upper bracket of the quoted range.

uae electrical plug Swagath INDIAN $$ (%5000444; Sector 26; mains 195-575; h11ammidnight; a) Stellar Indian food with a

Neelam s MULTICUISINE $ (mains 35-90; h9am-10.30pm) Not far from the Golden Temple, this unassuming eatery is a convenient spot to cool your heels over a banana lassi. The have-a-go-at-anything menu includes pizzas, burgers, soups, dosas, uae electrical plug aloo paratha and, for breakfast, honey muesli.

Swagath INDIAN $$ (%5000444; Sector 26; mains 195-575; h11ammidnight; a) Stellar Indian food with a focus on Mangalorean and Chettinad recipes. Seafood prawns, squid, crab and a tasty fish gassi (coconut-based curry) is artfully prepared, and the murg malai tikka (clay oven- cooked marinated chicken) isn t bad either.

The ceremony starts at around 4.15pm in winter and 5.15pm in summer (but double- check, given that timings vary according to sunset). Cameras are permitted (free) but bags, large and small, are banned (although this is haphazardly enforced).

saudi arabia power plug Hotel Le Golden HOTEL $$ (%5028000; www.hotellegolden.com; r from 1350; a) A reasonable choice near

Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas PILGRIMS REST HOUSE $ (dm free but donations appreciated, r with/without AC 300/100; a) To stay in the huge accommodation blocks for pilgrims and visitors to the Golden Temple, check in at Guru Arjan Dev Niwas. Foreigners are generally accommodated in the dorm at Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas next door. Rooms and dorms are ba

Another aspect saudi arabia power plug of Le Corbusier s master- plan is this landmark artificial lake (h8am10pm) replete with paddle boats (2-seaters per 30min 50; h8.30am-5.30pm). Ornamental gardens, saudi arabia power plug a children saudi arabia power plug s playground and the

Hotel Le Golden HOTEL $$ (%5028000; www.hotellegolden.com; r from 1350; a) A reasonable choice near the Golden Temple, rooms are tidy (if somewhat squishy) and the rooftop cafe has squinty temple views. Newly refurbished saudi arabia power plug rooms on the 3rd floor will be the pick of the bunch.

tanzania power plug oPunjab Grill NORTH INDIAN $$$ (%4029444; Sector 17-C; mains 425-600; h11am3.30pm & 6pm-midnight; a)

oPunjab Grill NORTH INDIAN $$$ (%4029444; Sector 17-C; mains 425-600; h11am3.30pm tanzania power plug & 6pm-midnight; a) Step inside this chic black, gold and glass restaurant where smoking tandoors deliver succulent veg and nonveg delights such as spicy boti kebab (charcoal-grilled marinated mutton) and tandoori gobi (cauliflower). Curries tanzania power plug include the meat Punjab grill, where lamb tikka is first roasted then curried tanzania power plug with fresh herbs to create a mouth-watering dish. Finish off with deliciously cool kheer (creamy rice pudding).

Guru-Ka-Langar is the free (donations appreciated) community dining room, a feature of all Sikh temples as a mark of unity among people of all religions, creeds and nationalities. The massive kitchens (one has a chapati machine) prepare vegetarian meals for an estimated 60,000 to 80,000 pilgrims a day (more during holy festivals). A truly incredible feat! All are welcome to join the masses eating on the floor and we highly recommend the experience (feel free to help volunteers with the washing up).

eyeshade Kurukshetra, or more correctly, the town of Thanesar in the district of Kurukshetra, will appeal to

Kurukshetra, or more correctly, eyeshade the town of Thanesar in the district eyeshade of Kurukshetra, will appeal eyeshade to tourists with an interest in history and religion. According to Hindu teachings, Brahma created the universe here, and Krishna delivered his epic Bhagavad Gita sermon, offered as advice to Arjuna (p 1108 ) before he fought the 18-day Mahabharata battle in which good triumphed over evil. The district takes its name from its founder Kuru, the Aryan king who offered his limbs to Vishnu in order to establish a land of ethics and values.

Don t let the facade put you off. This mid- ranger is a welcome retreat from the bustle of Lawrence Rd, with contemporary rooms that have either marble or carpeted fl oors. It will pay to check rooms for road noise and thin mattresses. Multicuisine restaurant.

japan electric plug Swagath INDIAN $$ (%5000444; Sector 26; mains 195-575; h11ammidnight; a) Stellar Indian food with a

Swagath INDIAN $$ (%5000444; Sector 26; mains 195-575; h11ammidnight; a) Stellar japan electric plug Indian food with a focus on Mangalorean japan electric plug and Chettinad recipes. Seafood prawns, squid, crab and a tasty fish gassi (coconut-based curry) is artfully prepared, and the murg malai tikka (clay oven- cooked marinated chicken) isn t bad either.

CROSSING INTO PAKISTAN japan electric plug Border Hours The border is open from 10am to 4pm daily, but get there at least half an hour before it closes. Foreign Exchange There s a State Bank of India (h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) which exchanges currency, but it s a tiny branch so play it safe and change money in Amritsar. Onward japan electric plug Transport From Wagah (Pakistan) there are buses and taxis to Lahore, 30km away. Sleeping & Eating If you have to stay overnight, there s the Aman Umeed Tourist Complex (%9780953882; Wagah border; r from 1500; a), which has just three rooms and a restaurant (mains 90 to 190). There are small stalls selling snacks and cold drinks. Visas Visas are theoretically available japan electric plug at the Pakistan embassy in Delhi; however, travellers are strongly urged to apply for a visa in their home country, where the process is usually japan electric plug more straightforward (see also p 1177 ).

oGrand Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2562424; www.hotelgrand.in; Queen s Rd; s/d from 1000/1200; aiW) This three-star hotel, close to the train station, is deservedly japan electric plug popular. The rooms aren t exactly grand but are certainly comfortably appointed and well kept. They, along with a restaurant (mains 50 to 250), the Bottoms Up Pub (see p 218 ), and a breezy veranda with tables and chairs (perfect at beer o clock), fringe a leafy garden. The amiable owner, Sanjay, is a reliable source of information and can arrange sightseeing japan electric plug trips (including to the Attari Wagah border closing ceremony).

malaysia power sockets Punjabi Rasoi MULTICUISINE $ (mains 45-85; h9am-11.30pm) A stone s throw away from the Golden Temple

Hotel Grand Legacy HOTEL $$ (%5069991; www.grandlegacy.net; 8 GT Rd, Model Town; s/d incl breakfast 3600/4600 malaysia power sockets ai) Fifty- two attractive malaysia power sockets rooms boast leather chairs, writing desk, LCD TV, minibar, tea-andcoffee- making facilities and electronic safe. There s also a gym, round-the-clock coffee shop, travel desk, business centre, the Moti Mahal Deluxe restaurant (p 218 ) and, for a cocktaily escapade, Behind Bars, with its zebra-print chairs and icy cold beer. Room discounts are readily offered depending on occupancy.

Hotel Le Golden HOTEL $$ (%5028000; www.hotellegolden.com; r from 1350; a) A reasonable choice near the Golden Temple, rooms are tidy (if somewhat squishy) and the rooftop cafe has squinty temple malaysia power sockets views. Newly refurbished rooms on the 3rd floor will be the pick of the bunch.

Punjabi Rasoi MULTICUISINE malaysia power sockets $ (mains 45-85; h9am-11.30pm) A stone s throw away from the Golden Temple, this unpretentious, fan-cooled, all-veg restaurant rustles up reasonable Indian, Continental and Chinese fare.

plaka district Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, t

Guru-Ka-Langar is the free (donations plaka district appreciated) community dining room, a feature of all Sikh temples as a mark of unity among people of all religions, creeds and nationalities. The massive kitchens (one has a chapati machine) prepare vegetarian meals for an estimated 60,000 to 80,000 pilgrims a day (more during plaka district holy festivals). A truly incredible feat! All are welcome to join the masses eating on the floor and we highly recommend the experience (feel free to help volunteers with the washing up).

Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, that quintessential accompaniment to spicy curries, it also nurtures much of India s wheat thanks to the green revolution of the 1960s. Punjabi cooks quickly embraced the cuisine plaka district of the Mugals and their renowned barbecue techniques using the ingenious and simple tandoor clay oven. Sizzling tandoori chicken is only beaten for popularity by the world-famous butter chicken; but you should also savour the tandoori vegetables, the various dhal (lentil) dishes and the locally plaka district famous Amritsari fried fish.

Haryana and Punjab comprise the Indian half of the erstwhile Punjab region that was tumultuously split when India and Pakistan separated in 1947. Punjab (translating to Five Waters ) is named after the five rivers of this fertile rice bowl and bread basket : the Beas, Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi and Sutlej.

Hotel Mountview HOTEL $$$ (%4671111; www.citcochandigarh.com/mountview; Sector 10-B; s/d incl breakfast from 7000/8000; aiWs) This hotel has well-presented rooms with flatscreen TV, tea-and-coffeemaking facilities, minibars, safes and easy- on-the-eye interiors. There s a health club, good restaurants (including 24-hour cafe) and the slick Vintage Terrace Lounge Bar (p 208 ).

el alamein memorial Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North I

# # # # # Fort Gobindgarh Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar OLD CITY Gole Bagh Jallianwala Bagh Railway Link Rd GT Rd Circular Rd Queen's Rd Cooper Rd Hukam Singh Rd GT Rd Court Rd Gobindgarh Rd Circular Rd Bazaar Shardha Nand Bazaar DeliKam Albert Rd Taylor Rd The Mall Guru Bazaar el alamein memorial Hall Bazaar Train Station 6 5

alphaOne el alamein memorial Foodcourt FAST FOOD $ (GT Rd; mains 45-85; h10am-10pm) On the 2nd floor of the alphaOne shopping mall, adjacent to the Ista Hotel and about 3km east of the interstate bus terminus, el alamein memorial is this clean and cool food court. Purchase a cash card at the counter to then purchase the food from the various stalls, including North Indian, el alamein memorial South Indian, Chinese, ice creams etc. Take the cash card back to the counter to get any change remaining on the card.

Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; el alamein memorial 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North Indian favourites; el alamein memorial the butter chicken, aloo jeera (spiced potatoes), chicken masala and palak paneer (unfermented cheese chunks el alamein memorial in spiced pureed spinach) get the thumbs up. Good variety of piping-hot Indian breads.

The fastest train to Delhi is the twice-daily Shatabdi Express (5.10am service chair car/ executive 570/1095, 5pm service 675/1260, 5 hours). A daily Amritsar Howrah Mail run links Amritsar with Lucknow (sleeper/3AC/2AC 310/825/1158, 16 hours), Varanasi ( 365/998/1373, 22 hours) and Howrah el alamein memorial ( 489/1346/1857, 37 hours).

electric plugs in turkey A PATIALA PEG In the early 1900s a tent-pegging contest took place in Patiala between the teams of t

A PATIALA PEG In the early 1900s a tent-pegging contest took place in Patiala between the teams of the viceroy and the sports-mad maharaja electric plugs in turkey of Patiala. Tent-pegging electric plugs in turkey is the curious sport of spearing tent pegs out of the ground with a lance from the back of a galloping horse. Desperate to win and fearful of the wrath of their maharaja, the Patialan team invited their opponents to drinks the night before the match. The British were plied with largerthan- usual measures (or pegs) of whisky, while the tent pegs were changed smaller ones for the viceroy s team and larger ones for the Patialans. electric plugs in turkey The maharaja s team won but the viceroy s team complained to the maharaja about the size of the pegs. The maharaja (not realising that the complaint referred to the tent pegs) replied that in Patiala, well known for its hospitality, the pegs (of whisky) electric plugs in turkey were always larger than elsewhere. Even today an extra-large measure of whisky is known all over India as a Patiala peg.

These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm) are built on seven levels with water features (that sometimes operate) electric plugs in turkey and enjoy panoramic views of the Shivalik Hills.

el alamein airport The gates are flung open and commanding officers of both countries shake hands and salute (blink and

The gates are flung open and commanding officers of both countries shake hands and salute (blink and you ll miss it). Then, the flags of both countries are simultaneously lowered and folded and the gates slammed shut. The border is now closed for the night.

Opposite the entrance to the Hotel Mount- view, Caf Coffee Day (Sector 10-D; snacks from 45; a) and Java Dave s (Sector 10-D; cakes from 55; a) continue trying to out- froth and out-bake each other on the cappuccino and cake fronts.

The ageing Mohan has seen better days, but is an option if you can t get a bed elsewhere. Rooms are a mixed bag (some in better shape than others), all adequately comfortable with flatscreen TV. Ensure the AC works in summer!

south korea electric plug Neelam s MULTICUISINE $ (mains 35-90; h9am-10.30pm) Not far from the Golden Temple, this unassuming

Neelam s MULTICUISINE $ (mains south korea electric plug 35-90; h9am-10.30pm) Not far from the Golden Temple, this unassuming eatery is a convenient spot to cool your heels over a banana lassi. The have-a-go-at-anything menu includes pizzas, burgers, soups, dosas, aloo paratha and, for breakfast, honey muesli. south korea electric plug

The temple south korea electric plug s architecture is a blend of Hindu and Islamic styles but with unique south korea electric plug distinctions. The golden south korea electric plug dome (said to be gilded with 750kg of gold) represents an inverted lotus flower, a symbol of Sikh devotees aim to live a pure life.

The old city, which includes the Golden south korea electric plug Temple and bazaars, is located to the southeast of the train station and is surrounded by a circular road, once the site of the city s massive walls. Modern Amritsar, south korea electric plug north of the train station, contains the majority of the upmarket hotels and Lawrence Rd, which is a popular eating and shopping street. The bus station is located 2km east of the train station.

Kishan Haveli (%01887-232650; Academy Rd; r 600-1000; a) is set in spacious south korea electric plug grounds and has an uncommercial, ramshackle charm. south korea electric plug This mellow countryside retreat, around 1.5km from town, has comfortable rooms and a simple restaurant (meals 80).

radiancy spa touch Hotel Ritz Plaza HOTEL $$ (%2562836; www.ritzhotel.in; 45 The Mall; s/d incl breakfast 3500/4700, st

Bhoj NORTH INDIAN $ (Sector radiancy spa touch 22-B; standard/choti thali 140/110; h7.30am-10.30pm; a) A travellers favourite, this is an unpretentious spot to fuel up on a hearty North Indian veg thali. The thali ingredients change throughout the day and you can augment the chapattis with rice for a nominal 10, or light eaters can order the smaller choti thali.

Hotel Ritz Plaza HOTEL $$ (%2562836; www.ritzhotel.in; 45 The Mall; s/d incl breakfast 3500/4700, ste 5700; ais) Particularly popular with business travellers and tour groups, the well-furnished radiancy spa touch rooms (either marble or timber flooring) come with TV, tea-and-coffee-making facilities, sofas and minibars. radiancy spa touch Standard rooms vary so check a few. On-site is a relaxing bar, round-theclock cafe and multicuisine restaurant.

CROSSING INTO PAKISTAN Border Hours The border is open from 10am to 4pm daily, but get there at least half an hour before radiancy spa touch it closes. Foreign Exchange There s a State Bank of India (h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) which exchanges currency, but it s a tiny branch so play it safe and change money in Amritsar. Onward Transport From Wagah (Pakistan) there are buses and taxis to Lahore, 30km away. Sleeping & Eating If you have to stay overnight, there s the Aman Umeed Tourist Complex (%9780953882; Wagah border; r from 1500; a), which has just three rooms and a restaurant (mains 90 to 190). There are small stalls selling snacks and cold drinks. Visas Visas are theoretically available at the Pakistan embassy in Delhi; however, travellers are strongly urged to apply for a visa in their home country, where the process is usually more straightforward (see also p 1177 ).

Chandigarh is spread out but, with its cycle paths and parks, was built for cycling. The Chandigarh Tourism office hires out bicycles ( 100 per eight hours); bicycles are also available for hire at Sukhna Lake (p204) for the same cost but with a (refundable) 500 deposit.

sri lanka power plug The gates are flung open and commanding officers of both countries shake hands and salute (blink and

The gates are flung open and commanding officers of both countries shake hands and salute (blink and you ll miss it). Then, the flags of both countries are simultaneously lowered and folded and the gates slammed shut. The border is now closed for the night.

At the gardens is the pleasant Mughalstyle Bajrigar Motel (%01733-231877; r 19002250, ste 5000; a), which has excellent and spotless comfy rooms and free garden sri lanka power plug entry for its guests. All are welcome at the motel s restaurant, sri lanka power plug Golden Oriel (veg/nonveg thali 120/140; h7am-11pm).

Haryana and Punjab comprise the Indian half of the erstwhile Punjab region that was tumultuously split when India and Pakistan separated in 1947. Punjab (translating to Five Waters ) is named after the five rivers of this fertile rice bowl and bread basket sri lanka power plug : the Beas, Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi and Sutlej.

eye mask templates printable Hotel Satyadeep HOTEL $ (%2703103; hddeepsdeep@yahoo.com; Sector 205 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; ai

Hotel Satyadeep HOTEL $ (%2703103; hddeepsdeep@yahoo.com; Sector 205 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; ai) Upstairs from the affiliated Sai Sweets shop, this is the most traveller-friendly budget option in town. Run by the courteous Vikramjit, the rooms aren t fancy but are well maintained and adequately comfortable it s a sound choice for solo women.

Drop downstairs, eye mask templates printable past a scowling Clint East- wood, to the nonsmoking Wild West Bar in the basement, before diving into fl avoursome Northwest Frontier style cuisine at the restaurant. It does startlingly good dhal Bukhara (slow-simmered curried lentils) and Pathan kebab (lava stone roasted lamb).

eagle creek counseling Hotel City Heart Premium HOTEL $$ (%2724203; cityhearthotels.com; Sector 17-C; s/d 2395/2795; aiW) A

Buses go to Amritsar ( 65, 2 hours), Jammu ( 70, 2 hours), Chamba ( 80, 3 hours), Dalhousie ( 65, 2 hours), Dharamsala ( 65, 2 hours), Manali eagle creek counseling ( 300, 10 hours), Chandigarh ( 150, six hours) and Delhi ( 320, 11 hours).

Hotel City Heart Premium HOTEL $$ (%2724203; cityhearthotels.com; Sector 17-C; s/d 2395/2795; aiW) A reasonable and, as the name suggests, central choice. Its modernish rooms don t really meet the expectations of the midrange price tag, but they are adequately spacious and comfortable with flatscreen TV, and there s a helpful travel desk.

The ceremony starts at around 4.15pm in winter and 5.15pm in summer (but double- check, given that timings vary according to sunset). Cameras are permitted (free) but bags, large and small, are banned (although this is haphazardly enforced).

tunisia electric plug The gates are flung open and commanding officers of both countries shake hands and salute (blink and

Several daily express trains leave for from Pathankot Junction train station (see Delhi (sleeper/2AC/1AC 212/772/1300, 11 the boxed text, p 330 ). hours), Amritsar (chair 40, three hours) Taxis to Amritsar/Dharamsala cost and Jammu (chair 47, three hours). The around 1500/1700. tunisia electric plug Kangra Valley narrow-gauge line leaves

The gates are flung open and commanding officers of both countries shake hands and salute (blink and you ll miss it). Then, the flags of both countries are simultaneously lowered and folded and the gates slammed tunisia electric plug shut. The border is now closed for the night.

In line with Le Corbusier s vision of a garden city, Chandigarh is dotted with verdant parks. These include the Rose Garden (Sector 16), which has over 1500 rose varieties, and Bougainvillea Garden (Sector 3). Less central are the Terraced Garden (Sector 33) and the Garden tunisia electric plug of Fragrance (Sector 36), the latter with sweet-scented varieties such as jasmine and damask rose.

will especially appeal to those interested in urban planning. Through old documents, sketches and photos, this place chronicles the work of Chandigarh s chief architect. There s a black-and-white photo of a suit- and-bow-tie-attired Le Corbusier on a paddle boat, as well as some fascinating letters, including one from Jawaharlal Nehru to the Chief Minister of Punjab dated 4 November 1960, part of which states, tunisia electric plug I do hope that you will not overrule Corbusier. His opinion is of value.

el alamein fountain sydney Crystal Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (%2225555; Cooper Rd; mains 140-250; h11am11.30pm; a) Rated by ma

will especially appeal to those interested in urban planning. Through old documents, sketches and photos, this place chronicles the work of Chandigarh s chief architect. There s a black-and-white photo of a suit- and-bow-tie-attired Le Corbusier on a paddle boat, as well as some fascinating letters, including one from Jawaharlal Nehru to the Chief Minister of Punjab dated 4 November 1960, part of which states, I do hope that you will not overrule Corbusier. His opinion is of value.

Mehfil MULTICUISINE $$ (Sector 17-C; mains 140-300; el alamein fountain sydney h11am-midnight; a) Indian, Chinese and Continental food served in comfortable surrounds, with the murg tawa (Punjabi-style chicken) el alamein fountain sydney and methi murg (chicken with fenugreek) among the standouts. Spice afi cionados may find some dishes el alamein fountain sydney too tame.

Crystal el alamein fountain sydney Restaurant MULTICUISINE el alamein fountain sydney $$ (%2225555; el alamein fountain sydney Cooper Rd; mains 140-250; h11am11.30pm; a) Rated by many as one of Amritsar s best restaurants, Crystal boasts all sorts of yummy global favourites, from lasagne to fish curry. Book ahead, especially on weekends. There are two Crystals (one upstairs el alamein fountain sydney and one downstairs), apparently due to a family el alamein fountain sydney split we re equally divided when it comes to judging which is best. Guess you ll just have to try both!

By far and away the easiest option is to take a trip organised by a hotel. Most hotels can arrange trips to the border; one reliable option is the Grand Hotel (p 215 ), which also takes nonguests with advance el alamein fountain sydney notice.

naphthalene poisoning Lake View Camping Complex (%01733250166; Tikka Tal; dm 150, r 1500, camping per person per night 600

Once the capital of an independent naphthalene poisoning Sikh state that was established by Baba Ala Singh as the Mughals weakened, Patiala is today a modest naphthalene poisoning town that sees just a trickle of travellers. It s well known for its kite fl ying during the Basant festival and, of course, the Patiala peg (see the boxed text, p 212 ).

Lake View Camping Complex (%01733250166; Tikka Tal; dm 150, r 1500, camping per person per night 600) has a picturesque lakeside location and very good rooms with water-facing balconies. Tents include sleeping bags and use of shared bathrooms. Overlooking the lake is a terrace restaurant (mains 60-290).

make eye pillow Hotel Narain Continental (%2212846; www. hotelnarain.com; Mall; r from 1575; a), locally known as Ho

Sanjay from the Grand Hotel runs reputable and good-value tours that include the Attari Wagah border closing ceremony, Mata Temple and a night visit to the Golden Temple from 500 per person. Day tours can also include the Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh and Sri Durgiana Temple. Customised tours to Dharamsala, Dalhousie and Manali can also be arranged.

Then, with a bellow from the guardroom, a squad stomps out, shoulders square, moustaches twirled and eyes bulging. The drill is to parade up and down as dramatically as possible, preceded by a kick so high the soldier looks in danger of concussing himself. The high-octane march to the border, vaguely reminiscent make eye pillow of Monty Python s Ministry of Silly Walks sketch, rouses thunderous applause from the audience and repetitive chants of Hindustan zindabad! (Long live India!).

Hotel Narain Continental (%2212846; www. hotelnarain.com; Mall; r from 1575; a), locally known as Hotel NC, and cheaper Green s Hotel (%2213071; make eye pillow Mall; r 600; a), both of which have unexciting furniture-scarred rooms and matter-of-fact service.

plaka grill A D D Chandigarh #e To Cyber-22 (120m); Kaptain's Retreat (650m); State Bank of India ATM (680m); Kh

Natural History Museum MUSEUM (%2740261; Sector 10-C; admission 10; h10am4.30pm Tue-Sun) Next door is the National History Museum, plaka grill less interesting for its fossilised dinosaur skulls than its Cro Magnon plaka grill man using an electric torch to illuminate his cave art!

A D D Chandigarh #e To Cyber-22 (120m); Kaptain's plaka grill Retreat (650m); State Bank of India ATM (680m); Khyber (1km) To Zinc Lounge (360m); Train Station (3.5km) Interstate Bus Terminal (Sector 43) (3.3km); Train Reservation Office (3.3km) 0 1km 0 0.5 miles

minutes from 4.30am to 9.30pm. The buses are 0 bright yellow and almost always full. Otherwise, from the train station to the Golden Temple a cycle-rickshaw costs around 30, an autorickshaw 50 and a taxi (%01835151515) 120. To the airport, an autorickshaw costs 200 and a taxi 500.

Upstairs, in the main entrance clock tower, the Sikh Museum (admission free; h7am7pm summer, 8am-6pm winter) vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Indira plaka grill Gandhi.

singapore outlet plug These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm)

These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm) are built on seven levels with water features (that sometimes operate) and enjoy panoramic views of the Shivalik Hills.

Once the capital of an independent Sikh state that was established singapore outlet plug by Baba Ala Singh as the Mughals weakened, Patiala is today a modest town that sees just a trickle of travellers. It s well known for its kite fl ying during the Basant festival and, of course, the Patiala peg (see the boxed text, p 212 ).

Caf Coffee Day CAFE (Phawara singapore outlet plug Chowk; snacks from 45; a) One of the ubiquitous espresso coffee franchises with savoury and sweet munchies, singapore outlet plug decent coffee and brain-freezing singapore outlet plug cold concoctions. Other branches are on Lawrence Rd and inside singapore outlet plug the alphaOne shopping mall. Entertainment The Aaanaam (%2210949; Taylor Rd) and Adarsh (%2565249; MMM Rd) cinemas screen Hindi (and occasionally English) movies. Consult newspapers for session details.

uae electrical plug The ageing Mohan has seen better days, but is an option if you can t get a bed elsewhere. Rooms are

Hotel Le Golden HOTEL $$ (%5028000; www.hotellegolden.com; uae electrical plug r from 1350; a) A reasonable choice near the Golden Temple, rooms are tidy (if somewhat squishy) and the rooftop cafe has squinty temple views. uae electrical plug Newly refurbished rooms on the 3rd floor will be the pick of the bunch.

The ageing Mohan has seen better days, but is an option if you can t get a bed elsewhere. Rooms are a mixed bag (some in better shape than others), all adequately comfortable uae electrical plug with flatscreen TV. Ensure the AC works in summer!

pakistan power plug oGrand Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2562424; www.hotelgrand.in; Queen s Rd; s/d from 1000/1200; aiW) This three-

Regular buses run to Patiala ( 45, three hours), Sirhind ( 30, two hours), Anandpur Sahib ( 45, 2 hours), Amritsar ( 150, seven hours), Dharamsala (ordinary/deluxe 200/350, eight hours), Manali (ordinary/ deluxe 300/400, 11 hours), Haridwar ( 145, six hours), Delhi ( 180, 5 hours) and Shimla ( 130, four hours).

oGrand Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2562424; www.hotelgrand.in; Queen s Rd; s/d from 1000/1200; aiW) This three-star hotel, pakistan power plug close to the train station, is deservedly popular. The rooms aren t exactly grand but are certainly comfortably appointed and well kept. They, along with a restaurant (mains 50 to 250), the Bottoms Up Pub (see p 218 ), and a breezy veranda with tables and chairs (perfect at beer o clock), fringe a leafy garden. The amiable pakistan power plug owner, Sanjay, is a reliable pakistan power plug source of information and can arrange sightseeing trips (including to the Attari Wagah border closing ceremony).

plaki plaka tu qi Mehfil MULTICUISINE $$ (Sector 17-C; mains 140-300; h11am-midnight; a) Indian, Chinese and Continent

Mehfil MULTICUISINE $$ (Sector 17-C; mains 140-300; plaki plaka tu qi h11am-midnight; a) Indian, plaki plaka tu qi Chinese and Continental food served in comfortable surrounds, with the murg tawa (Punjabi-style chicken) and methi murg (chicken with fenugreek) among the standouts. Spice afi cionados may find some dishes too tame.

Taj Chandigarh HOTEL $$$ (%6613000; www.tajhotels.com; Sector 17-A; r from 9000; aiWs) Although not as uberluxurious as we ve come to expect of the Taj, this place is still suitably svelte and 25% weekend discounts add to the appeal. Plush, big-windowed rooms boast ergonomic furniture, plaki plaka tu qi minibars, plaki plaka tu qi flatscreen TV, electronic safes and round-the-clock concierge services. There are several restaurants, the Lava Bar (p 208 ), spa (dare to try the warrior massage ) and a 24-hour business centre.

At the gardens is the pleasant Mughalstyle Bajrigar Motel (%01733-231877; r 19002250, ste 5000; a), which has excellent and spotless comfy rooms and free garden entry for its guests. All are welcome at the motel s restaurant, Golden Oriel (veg/nonveg thali 120/140; h7am-11pm).

Neelkanthi Krishna Dham Yatri Niwas (%291615; Pehowa Rd; r 900-1950; a) off ers the best accommodation option, with charmless but otherwise fine rooms; the attached tourist office (%293570; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sat) is of limited help.

power plug types by country It s worth getting here early to avoid the stampede when the crowd charges along the chicken run lea

Hotel Narain Continental (%2212846; www. hotelnarain.com; Mall; r from 1575; a), locally known as Hotel NC, and cheaper Green s Hotel (%2213071; Mall; r 600; a), both of which have unexciting furniture-scarred rooms and matter-of-fact service.

It s worth getting here early to avoid the stampede when the crowd charges along the chicken run leading to the grandstands. It s about a 10-minute walk from where vehicles drop you to the seating area. Foreigners are allowed to sit at the front stalls (behind the VIP area, which is closest to the border).

ayf tur Just 500m away, India s largest water tank, the ghat-fl anked Bhramasarovar, was, according to Hindu

Just 500m away, India s largest water tank, the ghat-fl anked Bhramasarovar, was, according to Hindu holy texts, created by Lord Brahma. It attracts throngs during solar eclipses ayf tur and Gita Jayanti, anniversary of the Bhagavad Gita (see p 200 ).

Hotels in Chandigarh and Amritsar quickly fi ll during weekends and festivals (book ahead). Attari is a train station near the border at Wagah, but transport from there to the border- closing ceremony is virtually nonexistent, so organise transport from Amritsar.

Moti Mahal Deluxe NORTH INDIAN $$ (%5069991; Hotel Grand Legacy, GT Rd, Model Town; mains 130-350; h9am-11.30pm; a) Moti Mahal enjoys a well-deserved reputation for expertly prepared North Indian cuisine (especially ayf tur tandoori). Consider the tasty murgh makhani (butter chicken) and diwani handi (mixed vegies in a roulette of fenugreek and mint). Icy cold Kingfisher beer is available.

greek plaka Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%2545186; www.hotelcityheartamritsar.com; opposite Jallianwala Bagh; r fr

Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%2545186; www.hotelcityheartamritsar.com; opposite Jallianwala Bagh; r from 1400; aiW) City Heart is a sophisticated choice in the old city with tidy rooms, flatscreen TVs and soft mattresses. Even the bottom-of-the-range rooms are a soothing respite from the frenetic streets. The attached Caf Heart restaurant (mains 80 to 300) has cool desserts, curries and a great outlook onto vibrant Golden Temple Rd.

Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North Indian favourites; the butter chicken, aloo jeera (spiced potatoes), chicken masala and palak paneer (unfermented cheese chunks in spiced pureed greek plaka spinach) get the thumbs up. Good variety of piping-hot Indian breads.

Sai Sweets SWEETS $ (Sector 22-B; sweets 10-35) Apart from an awesome array of mithai (Indian sweets), humble Sai Sweets has namkin greek plaka (savoury nibbles) and more substantial snacks like plump samosas and channa bhatura (fried Indian-style bread with spiced chickpeas).

uae electrical plug Hotel Mountview HOTEL $$$ (%4671111; www.citcochandigarh.com/mountview; Sector 10-B; s/d incl breakf

Tourist Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%2553830; bubblesgoolry@yahoo.com; 1355 GT Rd; dm/s/d 100/150/300; i) This stalwart is a backpacker institution (especially with overlanders). uae electrical plug The rooms may be scuff ed and bare but have high ceilings and fans, and you re paying peanuts! There is a go-with

Another aspect of Le Corbusier s master- plan is this landmark artificial lake (h8am10pm) replete with paddle boats (2-seaters per 30min 50; h8.30am-5.30pm). Ornamental gardens, a children s playground and the

Bhoj NORTH INDIAN $ (Sector 22-B; standard/choti thali 140/110; h7.30am-10.30pm; a) A travellers favourite, this is an unpretentious spot to fuel up on a hearty North Indian veg thali. The thali ingredients change throughout the day and you can augment the chapattis with rice for a nominal 10, or light eaters can order the smaller choti thali.

Hotel Mountview uae electrical plug HOTEL $$$ (%4671111; www.citcochandigarh.com/mountview; Sector 10-B; s/d incl breakfast from 7000/8000; aiWs) This hotel has well-presented rooms with flatscreen TV, tea-and-coffeemaking facilities, uae electrical plug minibars, safes and easy- on-the-eye interiors. There s a health club, good restaurants (including 24-hour cafe) and the slick Vintage Terrace Lounge Bar (p 208 ).

power voltage resistance relationship It s worth getting here early to avoid the stampede when the crowd charges along the chicken run lea

Several daily express trains leave for from Pathankot Junction train station (see Delhi (sleeper/2AC/1AC 212/772/1300, 11 the boxed text, p 330 ). hours), Amritsar (chair 40, three hours) Taxis to Amritsar/Dharamsala cost and Jammu (chair 47, three hours). The around 1500/1700. Kangra Valley narrow-gauge line leaves

Several daily express trains leave for from Pathankot Junction train station (see Delhi (sleeper/2AC/1AC 212/772/1300, 11 the boxed text, p 330 ). hours), Amritsar (chair 40, three hours) Taxis to Amritsar/Dharamsala cost and Jammu (chair 47, three hours). The around 1500/1700. Kangra Valley power voltage resistance relationship narrow-gauge line leaves

It s worth getting here early to avoid the stampede when the crowd charges along the chicken run leading to the grandstands. It s about a 10-minute walk from where vehicles drop you to the seating area. Foreigners are allowed to sit at the front stalls (behind the VIP area, which is closest to the border).

eric lader Founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh guru, Ram Das, Amritsar is home to Sikhism s holiest shrine, the

Founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh guru, Ram Das, Amritsar is home to Sikhism s holiest shrine, the spectacular Golden Temple. The gold-plated gurdwara glitters in the middle of its sacred pool of placid water and draws millions of pilgrims from all over the world. A welcome escape eric lader from the frenetic bazaars, this gilded temple is rated by many tourists as a glowing highlight of their visit to India. Regrettably, the same can t be said for the hyperactive streets! Indeed, Amritsar s crush of fuming mechanical traffi c, especially in the people-packed old city, can be downright eric lader frazzling.

Just 500m away, India s largest water tank, the ghat-fl anked Bhramasarovar, was, according to Hindu holy texts, eric lader created by Lord Brahma. It attracts throngs during solar eclipses and Gita Jayanti, anniversary of the Bhagavad Gita (see p 200 ).

In line with Le Corbusier s vision of a garden city, Chandigarh is dotted with verdant parks. These include the Rose Garden (Sector 16), which has over 1500 rose varieties, and Bougainvillea Garden (Sector 3). Less central are the Terraced Garden (Sector 33) and the Garden of Fragrance (Sector 36), the latter with sweet-scented varieties such as jasmine and damask rose.

Opposite eric lader the entrance to the Hotel Mount- view, Caf Coffee Day (Sector 10-D; snacks from 45; a) and Java Dave s (Sector 10-D; cakes from 55; a) continue trying to out- froth and out-bake each other on the cappuccino and cake fronts.

jason lader Swagath INDIAN $$ (%5000444; Sector 26; mains 195-575; h11ammidnight; a) Stellar Indian food with a

Swagath INDIAN $$ (%5000444; Sector 26; mains 195-575; h11ammidnight; a) Stellar Indian food with a focus on Mangalorean and Chettinad recipes. Seafood prawns, squid, crab and a tasty fish gassi (coconut-based curry) is artfully prepared, and the murg malai tikka (clay oven- cooked marinated chicken) isn t bad either.

Lucky Guest House HOTEL $ (%2542175; Mahna Singh Rd; r with/without AC from 700/500; a) The basic rooms are a bit pokey and it is worth paying jason lader 100 more for the deluxe versions. More of a fall-back option than a first choice.

Hot Millions Salad Bar & Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (%2723222; 1st fl, Sector 17-D; mains 175-380; h10am-midnight; a) This is the best of its citywide branches and is popular for its salad buffet (soups, veg/nonveg salads and desserts, 284 per person). The higgledy-piggledy la carte menu has everything from Tex-Mex and Chinese to Indian and Italian. It s advisable to book at this busy upstairs restaurant with attentive staff.

Lake View Camping Complex (%01733250166; Tikka Tal; dm 150, r 1500, camping per person per night 600) has a picturesque lakeside location and very good rooms with water-facing balconies. Tents include sleeping bags and use of shared jason lader bathrooms. Overlooking the lake is a terrace restaurant (mains 60-290).

some light reading Then, with a bellow from the guardroom, a squad stomps out, shoulders square, moustaches twirled and

In line with Le Corbusier s vision of a garden city, Chandigarh is dotted with verdant parks. These include the Rose Garden (Sector 16), which has over 1500 rose varieties, and Bougainvillea Garden (Sector some light reading 3). Less central are the Terraced Garden (Sector 33) and the Garden of Fragrance (Sector 36), the latter with sweet-scented varieties such as jasmine and damask rose.

Then, with a bellow from the guardroom, a squad stomps out, shoulders square, moustaches twirled and eyes bulging. The drill is to parade up and down as dramatically as possible, preceded by a kick so high the soldier looks in danger of concussing himself. The high-octane march to the border, vaguely reminiscent of Monty Python s Ministry some light reading of Silly Walks sketch, rouses thunderous applause from the audience and repetitive chants of Hindustan zindabad! (Long live India!).

Sagar Ratna SOUTH INDIAN $ (Sector 17-E; mains 75-150; h8am-11pm; a) This all-veg chain restaurant does South Indian specialities with aplomb, from fi rst-rate dosas (thin lentil-flour pancakes) to satiating, good- value thalis. The cool dahi idli (spongy rice cake) is a tummy-soothing yoghurty some light reading elixir.

3 prong plug in switch Buses go to Amritsar ( 65, 2 hours), Jammu ( 70, 2 hours), Chamba ( 80, 3 hours), Dalhousie ( 65, 2

Caf Coffee Day CAFE (Phawara Chowk; snacks from 45; a) One of the ubiquitous espresso coffee franchises with savoury and sweet munchies, decent coffee and brain-freezing cold concoctions. Other branches are on Lawrence Rd and inside the alphaOne shopping mall.

Buses go to Amritsar ( 65, 2 hours), Jammu ( 70, 2 hours), Chamba ( 80, 3 hours), Dalhousie ( 65, 2 hours), Dharamsala ( 65, 2 hours), Manali ( 300, 10 hours), Chandigarh ( 150, six hours) and Delhi ( 320, 11 hours).

Astoria Food Pavillion 3 prong plug in switch MULTICUISINE $ (mains 140-325; hnoon-11pm; a) It sounds like a food court, but it is in fact a pleasant multicuisine restaurant near the MK Hotel, cooking up a mishmash of dishes, from chicken Patiala and veg biryani to poached fish and spinach cannelloni. Head upstairs to the sister restaurant, Oka (mains 120 to

plugs by country Aroma MULTICUISINE $ (Sector 22; mains 50-150; a) Open 24 hours, this bustling concoction of fast-fo

Aroma MULTICUISINE $ (Sector 22; mains 50-150; a) Open 24 hours, this bustling concoction of fast-food joints includes a Caf Coffee Day, Nik s Bakery (croissants, burgers, cakes, hot dogs, pizzas), Coccoberry (ice cream), Sundaram s (South Indian) and Yo!China plugs by country (Chinese). Seating is shared; how they keep track of your order and bill is a mystery.

Aroma MULTICUISINE $ (Sector 22; mains 50-150; a) Open 24 hours, this bustling concoction of fast-food joints includes a Caf Coffee Day, Nik s Bakery (croissants, burgers, cakes, hot dogs, pizzas), Coccoberry plugs by country (ice cream), Sundaram s (South Indian) and Yo!China (Chinese). Seating is shared; how they keep track of your order and bill is a mystery.

You must enter the High Court via the car park. On the way is the small High Court Museum (admission free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) containing assorted memorabilia including original Le Corbusier sketches and the handcuffs worn by Nathuram Godse, Mahatma plugs by country Gandhi s assassin (see boxed text, p 1096 ). Most exhibits are on the 1st fl oor. On request, there s a free guided tour.

composition notebook cover pattern Return taxis (official ones have yellow number plates) from Amritsar to the border cost around 800 t

Return taxis (official ones have yellow number plates) from Amritsar to the border cost around 800 to 950 and take about one hour (price includes waiting composition notebook cover pattern time). Shared taxis (return per person 85) also run to the border-closing ceremony from the dining-hall entrance to the Golden composition notebook cover pattern Temple. They leave about two hours before the ceremony starts and squeeze in eight passengers.

became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan (see p 200 ). It s also a good base from which to visit Kapurthala, which was the home of the young Spanish composition notebook cover pattern flamenco dancer Anita Delgado, who married (wealthy) composition notebook cover pattern Maharaja Jagatjit composition notebook cover pattern Singh Bahadurmaharaja (a story that inspired the Javier Moro novel, Passion India).

types of 220v plugs Kurukshetra, or more correctly, the town of Thanesar in the district of Kurukshetra, will appeal to

3 Entertainment Tagore Theatre (%2724278; Sector 18-B) hosts music, dance and theatrical performances. Movies (mainly Hindi) are screened at the Kiran Cinema (%2705082; Sector 22-D) and Neelam Cinema (%2703600; Sector 17D), while a mix of Bollywood and Hollywood is shown at the multiplex Fun Cinemas

Swagath INDIAN $$ (%5000444; Sector 26; mains 195-575; h11ammidnight; a) Stellar Indian food with a focus on Mangalorean and Chettinad recipes. Seafood prawns, squid, crab and a tasty fish gassi (coconut-based curry) is artfully prepared, and the murg malai tikka (clay oven- cooked marinated chicken) isn t bad either.

Kurukshetra, types of 220v plugs or more correctly, the town of Thanesar in the district of Kurukshetra, will appeal to tourists with an interest in history and religion. According to Hindu teachings, Brahma created the universe here, and Krishna delivered his epic Bhagavad Gita sermon, offered as advice to Arjuna (p 1108 ) before he fought the 18-day Mahabharata battle in which good triumphed types of 220v plugs over evil. The district takes its name from its founder Kuru, the Aryan king who offered his limbs to Vishnu in order to establish a land of ethics and values.

pakistan power plug Mrs Bhandari s Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$ (%2228509; http://bhandari_guesthouse.tripod.com; 10 Canton

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Mrs Bhandari s Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$ (%2228509; http://bhandari_guesthouse.tripod.com; 10 Cantonment; camping pakistan power plug 200, s/d from 1500/1800; ais) Legacy of the much- loved Mrs Bhandari (1906 2007), this earthy, ecoconscious guesthouse is set on

The Baradari Palace (Rajinder Kothi; %2304433; www.neemranahotels.com; Baradari Garden area; r 3500-5500; a) is a grand her- itage-hotel, Punjab s most graceful place to stay and a perfect pakistan power plug stopover for anyone belting out the Delhi Amritsar road trip. Dripping with old-world charm, this restored property boasts high ceilings, period furnishings and wide, relaxing terraces that overlook lovely gardens. Note that most rooms are in the upper bracket of the quoted range.

singapore outlet plug T Tours A double-decker tourist bus (%2703839, 4644484; ticket 50; h10am-1.30pm & 2.305.30pm) runs t

Hotel Divyadeep HOTEL $ (%2705191; Sector singapore outlet plug 22-B; s 700-900, d 800-1000; a) This is Satyadeep s sister hotel, and another reliable choice singapore outlet plug that is convenient to the bus station and Sector 17 (CBD). singapore outlet plug The cheaper rooms have smaller dimensions but are just as well kept as the more expensive singapore outlet plug rooms.

T Tours A double-decker tourist bus (%2703839, 4644484; ticket 50; h10am-1.30pm & 2.305.30pm) runs two daily half-day trips from outside the Hotel Shivalikview (buy ticket from conductor) to the Rose Garden, Government Museum & Art Gallery, Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden singapore outlet plug and Sukhna Lake.

power outlets canada 215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-La

Aroma MULTICUISINE $ (Sector power outlets canada 22; mains 50-150; a) Open 24 hours, this bustling power outlets canada concoction of fast-food joints includes a Caf Coffee Day, Nik s Bakery (croissants, burgers, cakes, hot dogs, pizzas), Coccoberry (ice cream), Sundaram s (South Indian) and Yo!China (Chinese). Seating is shared; how they keep track of your order and bill is a mystery.

215 Amritsar Sights 25 Kesar Da Dhaba.C3 1 Golden Temple. A4 Moti Mahal Deluxe.(see 12) 2 Guru-Ka-Langar. A4 Neelam's. (see 27) 3 Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama. D2 26 Punjab Dhaba.C3 power outlets canada 4 Martyrs' Gallery. B4 27 Punjabi Rasoi.A4 5 Mata Temple. B2 28 Sagar Ratna.C2 Sikh Museum.(see 33) 6 Sri Durgiana Temple. B3 Drinking Bottoms Up Pub.(see 7) Sleeping 29 Caf Coffee Day. C1 7 Grand Hotel. B2 8 Hotel City Heart. A4 Entertainment 9 Hotel CJ International. A4 30 Aaanaam Cinema.C2 10 Hotel Golden power outlets canada Tower. D4 31 Adarsh Cinema. C1 11 Hotel Grace. A4 12 Hotel Grand Legacy. A2 Shopping 13 Hotel Holy City. A4 32 Katra Jaimal Singh Bazaar.C4 Hotel Indus. (see 9) 14 Hotel Lawrence.C1 Information 15 Hotel Le Golden. A3 33 Information Office.A4 16 Hotel MC International.C1 34 SS Colour Lab. C1 17 Hotel Ritz Plaza.B1 35 Tourist power outlets canada Office.B2 Hotel Sita Niwas. (see 11) 36 Unique Colour Lab.C2 18 Lucky Guest House. power outlets canada A4 19 MK Sood Guesthouse. A4 Transport 20 Mohan International Hotel.B1 37 Bus Station.D3 21 Sri Guru Ram Das Niwas. A4 Free Bus to Golden power outlets canada Temple. (see 35) 22 Tourist Guesthouse. C2 38 Indian Airlines. B1 39 Taxis & Share-Jeeps to Eating Attari Wagah Border.A4 23 Brothers' Dhaba. D3 40 Train Reservation power outlets canada Office.A4 24 Crystal Restaurant. C2

Chandigarh fails to excite on the accommodation front, especially when it comes to value for money. To stay with a family, contact the Chandigarh Tourism offi ce (p 209 ) for details power outlets canada about its Bed & Breakfast scheme (rooms from 1000).

Sai Sweets SWEETS $ (Sector 22-B; sweets 10-35) Apart from an awesome array of mithai (Indian sweets), humble Sai Sweets has namkin (savoury nibbles) and more substantial snacks like plump samosas and channa power outlets canada bhatura (fried Indian-style bread with spiced chickpeas).

power plug egypt It s worth getting here early to avoid the stampede when the crowd charges along the chicken run lea

Prior to the ceremony, the stony-faced power plug egypt soldiers mill about with the air of self-conscious debutantes and the real action is that of the spectators, some parading the Indian flag. Loud music and a comp re pump up the crowd s patriotic fervour. The Pakistanis are equally vociferous, except power plug egypt during Ramadan, when their stands are noticeably quieter.

AB s INDIAN $$ (%2795666; Sector 26; mains 195-525; h11ammidnight; a) Settle back at suave AB s (specialising in Punjabi, Kashmiri and Mughlai cuisine) and savour the likes of tabakh maaz (spicy, marinated mutton ribs), paneer achari (slow fl ame-cooked, power plug egypt spice-andpickle- marinated unfermented cheese) and jungli gosht (spicy tomato-based mutton).

It s worth getting here early to avoid the stampede when the crowd charges along the chicken run leading to the grandstands. It s about a 10-minute walk from where vehicles drop you to the seating area. Foreigners are allowed to sit at the front stalls (behind the VIP area, which is closest to the border).

el alamein weather DON T MISS Join the pilgrimage to Sikhism s serene Golden Temple in Amritsar. Spend some time circum

DON T MISS Join the pilgrimage el alamein weather to Sikhism s serene Golden Temple in Amritsar. Spend some time circumambulating the sacred lake, Amrit Sarovar, partaking prasad and generally joining in. Sikhism prides itself on its open and inclusive outlook to all religions and all peoples. Witness the gilded el alamein weather temple during an ethereal sunrise, moody sunset, and when it is sparkling el alamein weather and illuminated at night. Cheer with pumped-up patriots as they watch Indian and Pakistani soldiers try to out-stomp, out-scowl and out-salute each other at Attari Wagah s fantastical border-closing ceremony. When in Chandigarh, explore the whimsical world of Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden. Reputed to be one of India s top tourist el alamein weather attractions, this recycled wonder world will enthral the kids and may even provide a few ideas for home projects! Top State Festivals

The ceremony starts at around 4.15pm in winter and 5.15pm in summer (but double- check, given that timings vary according to sunset). Cameras are permitted (free) but bags, large and small, are banned (although this is haphazardly enforced).

etude house sleeping mask Prior to the ceremony, the stony-faced soldiers mill about with the air of self-conscious debutantes

Buses go to Amritsar ( 65, 2 hours), Jammu ( 70, 2 hours), Chamba ( 80, 3 hours), Dalhousie ( 65, 2 hours), Dharamsala ( 65, 2 hours), Manali ( 300, 10 hours), Chandigarh ( 150, six hours) and Delhi ( 320, 11 hours).

Sporting etude house sleeping mask panoramic city views from its lofty heights, this is one of Chandigarh s best Chinese restaurants. Chicken Sichuan, eggplant etude house sleeping mask in garlic sauce, spicy honey chicken, chilli garlic noodles decisions, decisions! All desserts come with ice cream; try the fried apple Cantonese style or date pancakes.

Hotel Ritz Plaza HOTEL $$ (%2562836; www.ritzhotel.in; 45 The Mall; s/d incl breakfast 3500/4700, ste 5700; ais) Particularly popular with business travellers and tour groups, the well-furnished rooms (either etude house sleeping mask marble or timber flooring) come with TV, tea-and-coffee-making facilities, sofas and minibars. Standard rooms vary so check a few. On-site is a relaxing bar, round-theclock cafe and multicuisine restaurant.

Prior to the ceremony, the stony-faced etude house sleeping mask soldiers mill about with the air of self-conscious debutantes and the real action is that of the spectators, etude house sleeping mask some parading the Indian flag. Loud music and a comp re pump up the crowd s patriotic fervour. The Pakistanis are equally vociferous, except during Ramadan, when their stands are noticeably quieter.

china phon The first stage of an international airport was scheduled for completion around 2013 at the time of

The first stage of an international airport was scheduled for completion around 2013 at the time of research, although the first international flights may start before this date. The following have daily flights to Delhi (one way 3000) and Mumbai (Bombay; 7700).

The first stage of an international airport was scheduled for completion around 2013 at the time of research, although the first international flights may start before this date. The following have daily flights to Delhi (one way 3000) and Mumbai (Bombay; 7700).

Sultanpur is 46km southwest of Delhi and getting there is tougher than spotting a red-crested pochard! There are irregular, bone-shaking buses ( 40, one hour). It s better to hire a taxi (return 1400).

g phon Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North I

Then, with a bellow from the guardroom, a squad stomps out, shoulders square, moustaches twirled and eyes bulging. The drill is to parade up and down as dramatically as possible, preceded by a kick so high the soldier looks in danger of concussing himself. The high-octane march to the border, vaguely reminiscent of Monty Python s Ministry g phon of Silly Walks sketch, rouses thunderous applause from the audience and repetitive chants of Hindustan zindabad! (Long live India!).

tuating population of woodland, shallow- water and deep-water birds includes an estimated 150 resident species and roughly 100 visiting species from Europe, Afghanistan, Siberia and elsewhere. The best time to visit is October to March.

Hot Millions Salad Bar & Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (%2723222; 1st fl, Sector 17-D; mains 175-380; h10am-midnight; a) This is the best of its citywide branches and is popular for its salad buffet g phon (soups, veg/nonveg salads and desserts, 284 per person). The higgledy-piggledy la carte menu has everything from Tex-Mex and Chinese to Indian and Italian. It s advisable to book at this busy upstairs restaurant with attentive staff.

Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North Indian favourites; g phon the butter chicken, aloo jeera (spiced potatoes), chicken masala and palak paneer (unfermented cheese g phon chunks in spiced pureed spinach) get the thumbs up. Good variety of piping-hot g phon Indian breads.