light reading leading lights Hotels in Chandigarh and Amritsar quickly fi ll during weekends and festivals (book ahead). Attari i

These reconstructed 17th-century Mughal era walled gardens (%01733-230759; admission 20; h7am-10pm) are built on seven levels with water features (that sometimes operate) and enjoy panoramic views of the Shivalik Hills.

Faridkot was once capital light reading leading lights of a Sikh state of the same name and has a 700-year-old fortress. The 13th-century poet and Sufi Baba Sheikh Farid lived here, and he is honoured by a festival (see p 200 ). His belief in equality influenced Guru Nanak (see the boxed text, p 1110 ) and some of his poems are in the Sikh holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib.

Hotels in Chandigarh and Amritsar quickly fi ll during light reading leading lights weekends and festivals (book ahead). Attari is a train station near the border light reading leading lights at Wagah, but transport from there to the border- closing ceremony is virtually nonexistent, so organise transport from Amritsar.