the lader 214 HARYANA & PUNJAB PUNJAB Jallianwala Bagh HISTORIC SITE (h6am-9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) Near th

tuating population of woodland, shallow- water and deep-water birds includes an estimated 150 resident species and roughly 100 visiting species from Europe, Afghanistan, Siberia and elsewhere. The best time to visit is October to March.

214 HARYANA & PUNJAB the lader PUNJAB Jallianwala Bagh HISTORIC SITE (h6am-9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) Near the Golden Temple, this poignant park commemorates those Indians killed or wounded here by the British authorities in 1919 see the boxed text, p 216. Some of the bullet the lader holes are still visible in the memorial wall, as is the well into which hundreds desperately leapt to avoid the bullets. There s an eternal (24-hour) fl ame of remembrance. The park also contains the Martyrs Gallery the lader (h6am- 9pm summer, 7am-8pm winter) exhibiting fi rsthand reports and pictures. Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama (Ram Bagh) MUSEUM (admission 10; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun) Within the grounds of the Ram Bagh park is the extraordinary Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama, dedicated to the Lion of Punjab (1780 1839). Upstairs is the larger-than-life panorama, replete with booming sound eff ects (think screaming men and horses in pitch battle), depicting various battle scenes including the maharaja s 1818 conquest of the fort at Multan. the lader Kids, especially those with a penchant for war, will love it. Exhibits downstairs include colour paintings and dioramas. Shoes must be removed and cameras aren t permitted inside. Mata Temple HINDU TEMPLE the lader (Model Town, Rani-ka-Bagh; hdawn-dusk) This labyrinthine Hindu cave temple commemorates the bespectacled 20th-century female the lader saint Lal Devi. Women wishing to become pregnant come here to pray. The circuitous route to the main shrine the lader passes through ankle-deep waterways, low tunnels, staircases, walkways and caves, the last of which turns out to be the inside of a cave-like divine mouth. Sri Durgiana Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Gobindgarh Rd; hdawn-dusk) Dedicated to the goddess Durga, this 16th-century the lader temple, surrounded by a holy water tank, is a Hindu ver- 6 66 66 6 6 66 66 66 6 66 6 66 6 6