stash money Then, with a bellow from the guardroom, a squad stomps out, shoulders square, moustaches twirled and

Kishan Haveli (%01887-232650; Academy Rd; r 600-1000; a) is set in spacious grounds and has an uncommercial, ramshackle charm. This mellow countryside retreat, around 1.5km from town, has comfortable rooms and a simple restaurant (meals 80).

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Then, with a bellow from the guardroom, a squad stomps out, shoulders square, moustaches twirled and eyes bulging. The drill is to parade up and down as dramatically as possible, preceded by a kick so high the soldier looks in danger of concussing himself. The high-octane stash money march to the border, vaguely reminiscent of Monty Python s Ministry of Silly Walks sketch, rouses thunderous applause from the audience and repetitive chants of Hindustan zindabad! (Long live India!).