Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%2545186; www.hotelcityheartamritsar.com; opposite Jallianwala Bagh; r from 1400; aiW) City Heart is a sophisticated choice in the old city with tidy rooms, flatscreen TVs and soft mattresses. Even the bottom-of-the-range rooms are a soothing respite from the frenetic streets. The attached Caf Heart restaurant (mains 80 to 300) has cool desserts, curries and a great outlook onto vibrant Golden Temple Rd.
Moti Mahal INDIAN $$ (%5073333; Sector 17-C; mains 145-250; 207 h10.30am-11.30pm; a) Scrummy North Indian favourites; the butter chicken, aloo jeera (spiced potatoes), chicken masala and palak paneer (unfermented cheese chunks in spiced pureed greek plaka spinach) get the thumbs up. Good variety of piping-hot Indian breads.
Sai Sweets SWEETS $ (Sector 22-B; sweets 10-35) Apart from an awesome array of mithai (Indian sweets), humble Sai Sweets has namkin greek plaka (savoury nibbles) and more substantial snacks like plump samosas and channa bhatura (fried Indian-style bread with spiced chickpeas).
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