became an important Mughal city. Nowadays it s a commercial hub and the venue for the Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan (see p 200 ). It s also a good base from which to visit Kapurthala, which was the home of the young Spanish flamenco dancer Anita Delgado, who married (wealthy) Maharaja Jagatjit Singh Bahadurmaharaja (a story that inspired the Javier Moro novel, Passion India).
Three fast trains connect Delhi and Chandigarh daily: the 12005/6 and 12011/12 Kalka Shatabdi Express kao steam eye mask (AC chair/1AC 420/800, 3 hours) and the 12057/8 Una Jan Shatabdi Express (2nd class/AC chair 107/345, four hours).
Caf Coffee Day CAFE (Phawara Chowk; snacks from 45; a) One of the ubiquitous espresso coffee franchises with savoury and sweet munchies, decent coffee and brain-freezing cold concoctions. Other branches are on Lawrence Rd and inside the alphaOne kao steam eye mask shopping mall.
Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%2545186; www.hotelcityheartamritsar.com; opposite Jallianwala Bagh; r from 1400; aiW) City Heart is a sophisticated choice in the old city with tidy rooms, flatscreen TVs and soft mattresses. Even the bottom-of-the-range rooms are a soothing respite kao steam eye mask from the frenetic streets. The attached Caf Heart restaurant (mains 80 to 300) has cool desserts, curries and a great outlook onto vibrant Golden Temple Rd.
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