make eye pillow Hotel Narain Continental (%2212846; www. hotelnarain.com; Mall; r from 1575; a), locally known as Ho

Sanjay from the Grand Hotel runs reputable and good-value tours that include the Attari Wagah border closing ceremony, Mata Temple and a night visit to the Golden Temple from 500 per person. Day tours can also include the Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh and Sri Durgiana Temple. Customised tours to Dharamsala, Dalhousie and Manali can also be arranged.

Then, with a bellow from the guardroom, a squad stomps out, shoulders square, moustaches twirled and eyes bulging. The drill is to parade up and down as dramatically as possible, preceded by a kick so high the soldier looks in danger of concussing himself. The high-octane march to the border, vaguely reminiscent make eye pillow of Monty Python s Ministry of Silly Walks sketch, rouses thunderous applause from the audience and repetitive chants of Hindustan zindabad! (Long live India!).

Hotel Narain Continental (%2212846; www. hotelnarain.com; Mall; r from 1575; a), locally known as Hotel NC, and cheaper Green s Hotel (%2213071; make eye pillow Mall; r 600; a), both of which have unexciting furniture-scarred rooms and matter-of-fact service.