naphthalene numbering Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, t

A PATIALA PEG In the early 1900s a tent-pegging contest took place in Patiala between the teams of the viceroy and the sports-mad maharaja of Patiala. Tent-pegging is the curious sport of spearing tent pegs out of the ground with a lance from the back of a galloping horse. Desperate to win and fearful of the wrath of their maharaja, the Patialan team invited their opponents to drinks the night before the match. The British were plied with largerthan- usual measures (or pegs) of whisky, while the tent pegs were changed smaller ones for the viceroy s team and larger ones for the Patialans. The maharaja s team won but the viceroy s team complained to the maharaja about the size of the pegs. The maharaja (not realising that the complaint referred to the tent pegs) replied that in Patiala, well known for its hospitality, the pegs (of whisky) were always larger than elsewhere. Even today an extra-large measure of whisky is known all over India as a Patiala peg.

Ista Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%2708888; www.istahotels.com; GT Rd; s/d from 9000/9500; aiWs) Amritsar s only fivestar hotel, sits beside a bright shopping mall, alphaOne, 3km east of the interstate bus terminus. Fans of five-star hotels may be a little underwhelmed by the smallish standard rooms, but will adore the pool and the pampering Ista Spa, which has quite a reputation. Room, meal and spa packages are available. Thai and Chinese cuisine is available in Thai Chi Restaurant and teppanyaki is available in Collage, the hotel s multicuisine restaurant (mains 160 to 400).

Punjab is a food-lover s paradise. Not only is this region home to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, that quintessential accompaniment to spicy curries, it also nurtures much of India s wheat thanks to the green revolution of the 1960s. Punjabi cooks quickly embraced the cuisine of the Mugals and their renowned barbecue techniques using the ingenious and simple tandoor clay oven. Sizzling naphthalene numbering tandoori chicken is only beaten for popularity by the world-famous butter chicken; but you should also savour the tandoori vegetables, the various dhal (lentil) naphthalene numbering dishes and the locally famous Amritsari fried fish.