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Piccadily Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2707571; www.thepiccadily.com; Sector 22-B; s/d from 3850/4850; aiW) This ageing power outlets in london but appealing three-star property off ers complimentary breakfast, contemporary rooms with LCD TV, minibar, sofa, writing desk, tea-andcoffee- making facilities, safe, and satiny bed- covers. It s worth asking for a discount and, with two restaurants, you don t have to travel far for a decent meal. Graze on Italian faves at Pomodoro (p 206 ) or a curry at Currys.

People come to the border, 30km west of Amritsar, for two reasons: to enjoy the late afternoon border-closing ceremony (see the boxed text, p 221 ) or to use the crossing between India and Pakistan (see the boxed text, p 220 ).

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The Kesgarh Sahib is the largest gurdwara and has a number of holy weapons on display, some of them in the hands of the guards. The smaller gurdwara Sis Ganj marks the spot where Guru Tegh Bahadur s head was cremated after it was brought back from Delhi. Some 500m from town is Anandgarh Sahib, where a flight of steps leads to a fort on the roof. From here you can see the fi ve-petal power outlets in london form (inspired by the five warrior-saints in the Khalsa) of the Khalsa Heritage Complex. This impressive museum complex, with informative exhibits showcasing Sikhism s vibrant history and culture, has been under construction for over a decade but was nearing completion when we visited. For further details click www.khalsaheritagecomplex.org.