Neelkanthi Krishna Dham Yatri Niwas (%291615; Pehowa Rd; r 900-1950; a) off ers the best accommodation option, with charmless but otherwise fine rooms; the attached tourist office (%293570; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sat) is of limited help.
Mehfil MULTICUISINE $$ (Sector 17-C; mains 140-300; h11am-midnight; a) Indian, Chinese and Continental food served in comfortable surrounds, with the murg tawa (Punjabi-style chicken) and methi murg (chicken with fenugreek) among the standouts. Spice afi cionados may find some dishes too tame.
CROSSING INTO PAKISTAN Border Hours The border is open from 10am to 4pm daily, but get there at least half an hour before it closes. Foreign Exchange There s a State Bank of India (h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) which exchanges currency, but it s a tiny branch so play it safe and change money in Amritsar. Onward Transport From Wagah (Pakistan) there are buses and taxis to Lahore, 30km away. Sleeping & Eating If you have to stay overnight, there s the Aman Umeed Tourist Complex (%9780953882; Wagah border; r from 1500; a), which has just three rooms and a restaurant (mains 90 to 190). There are small stalls selling shanghai plug adapter snacks and cold drinks. Visas Visas are theoretically available at the Pakistan embassy in Delhi; however, travellers are strongly urged to apply for a visa in their home country, where the process is usually more straightforward (see also p 1177 ).
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